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Alps 2014

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Unofficial Alps Trip 2014

**** The current plan is to go to Chamonix from the 19th July - 10th August. **** - Becky's alteration, reformatted.

Ideas for where?

Bernese Oberland

Possible valley bases in Lauterbrunnen (club stayed there in 2004) or Grindelwald?

Walking

Walking peaks such as Schilthorn and Schwarzhorn. High levels traverses and valley walks. Club members found at least ten days of walking in 2004. Using mechanical uplift opens up quite a range of possibilities.

Mountaineering

4000m peaks are less accessible but may relatively straightforward peaks (e.g. Gross Fiescherhorn, Gross Grünhorn, Mönch, Jungfrau) can be accessed from (e.g.) the Mönchsjoch Hut and the Konkordia Hut.

Trainer walks

Eiger Nordwand.

Chamonix

Possible valley bases anywhere in the main valley between les Houches and Argentiere (les Praz is a good compromise). Use of the train in the main valley is free, with most campsites being within walking distance of a stop. Costs are not incomparable with those elsewhere in the central and eastern alps. No idea when, if ever, the club last went to the area.

Walking

Masses to do. The Aiguilles Rouges are home to many wonderful walks of all difficulties, with stupendous views of the opposing Mont Blanc massif. Equally good, there is a lot to be going at a bit further north. Mechanical uplift makes many attractive 'balcony' walks thoroughly amenable e.g. Plan de l'Aiguille - Montenvers.

Mountaineering

The world centre of alpinism! Classic routes across the entire grade range, which ought more than make up for the hustle and bustle of the valley. Again, for those seeking sunny solitude, the Aiguilles Rouges provides, where routes of a mountaineering ilk (e.g. ridge traverses, such as the Perseverance - Chamois) see little traffic.

Valais

Possible valley bases in Saas (Saas Grund has good campsites - club has stayed in Camping Mischabel several times) or Zermatt (limited campsite - better campsites in Täsch and Randa). Currently Saas is offering free cable cars which makes access to high-level walking options cheap and easy.

Walking

Walks up to passes (e.g. Monte Moro)

Mountaineering

Lots of easy (i.e. F / PD) routes from Saas - e.g. Allalinhorn, Alphubel, Weissmies traverse, Lagginhorn, Strahlhorn.

Dates

Three ISM courses based around Leysin

  • week starting 6th July, student week
  • week starting 20th July, student week
  • week starting 26th, alpine ascents

People:

  • Becky - 20th July - middle August.
  • Tom H - anytime after 6th July. Would appreciate it not being too far east- I'll have to go home first to get kit.
  • Dave M - keen for anytime in August. Will probably be away busy till end of July.
  • Rose P - In Chamonix 11th-28th July. Will be based with a NZ friend, but keen to met up with CUHWC peeps.
  • Philip W — keen, booked onto the AAC course (2014-07-20 to 2014-07-26) and will then stay on for a week or so
  • Laurent - Doing the AAC course with Phil and Vicky
  • Michael - Late July to August - looking for around 2 weeks (maybe up to 18 days).
  • Andrena - all of July and 1st 2 weeks of August. Probably 3 weeks and maybe more than one location.
  • Vicky - Process of booking AAC course and then plan to stay for a week or so afters...basically I'm stalking Phil for 2+ weeks...he better not mind a limpet!
  • Doug - Keen for a week, ideally with a weekend at either side incl. transport. Pretty flexible on dates
  • Jade - flexible on date, keen for walking, scrambling
  • Lucy - Keen for a week, mostly mountaineering, may well drive out there. Flexible on dates.
  • Chris - Free in July until 26th, aiming to do a course plus extra week, so ISM on 6th July?
  • Paul F - Free any time in July / early August. Looking to do a course plus one week.
  • Matt G - looking to spend a week or possibly a bit longer, flexible on dates
  • Kirsty - end of July, beginning of August

Transport

  • For Valais - flights to Geneva
  • For Bernese Oberland - flights to Basel

Alpine courses

ISM Student Alpine Week

http://www.alpin-ism.com/courses/summermountaineering/studentalpineweek.cfm

  • Based in Leysin (equidistant to locations above)
  • Dates:
    • 6th–12th July
    • 20th–26th July
  • Guide ratio: 1 to 6
  • 5 days’ instruction
  • 6 nights’ accommodation
  • Cost: £820 (all inclusive)
  • Curriculum:
    • Rope work & rock skills (tying in, climbing knots, abseiling, prussiking, belaying on rock, ice and snow)
    • Snow & ice climbing, glacier work (crampons, ice axes on ice and snow)
    • High mountaineering (taking coils, moving together)
    • Snow craft & crevasse rescue
  • Experience required:
    • Some experience of rock climbing & rope work (indoor or outdoor)
  • Members who are confirmed as attending:
    • Fill your names and dates in here

JCMT

http://www.jcmt.org.uk/courses/

  • Based in Chamonix
  • More targeted at climbers?
  • Have run in ‘June, July and August’ in the past (website outdated)
  • Application deadline: start of April
  • Guide ratio: 1 to 3
  • 3 days’ instruction
  • Cost: ~£110 (not including travel, accommodation, food, insurance, mountain lifts, mountain huts, equipment hire) + ~€50 for accommodation 1 night
  • Applications closed already? Website probably out of date
  • Curriculum:
    • Movement on snow and ice (crampons, axes)
    • Rope work on glaciers and mixed terrain
    • Awareness of alpine hazards
    • Snow and ice anchors
    • Crevasse rescue
  • Experience required:
    • “Keen mountaineer/climber with experience in the UK and intend to do some graded Alpine routes (‘F’ (facil) or above)”
    • It will be your first alpine season
  • Members who are confirmed as attending:
    • Fill your names in here

AAC UK

http://www.alpenverein-akademie.at/akademie/bildung_freizeit/bersteigerschule-fuehrung/courses-for-english-speakers/index_detail.php?veranstaltung_id=cc7b4f1d-0bf0-4377-ac52-494829ece1ce

  • Based in Northern Tirol
  • 20th–26th July
  • Guide ratio: 1 to 4–6 (maximum group size of 6)
  • 5 days’ instruction
  • Cost: €747 (≈£620) course + £33.50 membership (including equipment hire [except boots], half-board accommodation for 6 nights; not including lunches)
    • Training grants available to AAC members to help with the cost
  • Curriculum:
    • Glacier travel
    • Simple rock climbing and movement on steep firn and ice
    • Rope handling and knots
    • Crevasse rescue & basic mountain rescue techniques
    • First aid
    • Navigation
    • Alpine dangers
  • Experience required:
    • General fitness and ability to do ~4 hour ascents
  • Members who are confirmed as attending:
    • Philip
    • Vicky
    • Laurent
    • Andy H
    • Paul F (place confirmed, completing grant paperwork)
    • Mark (signed on, as far as I can see)